Understanding Suit Fabrics & Materials: The Expert’s Guide
The Foundation of Every Great Suit
A suit is only as good as the fabric from which it’s made. At Avi’s Threads, fabric selection isn’t just the first step—it’s the most critical decision in the tailoring process. Understanding what sets premium materials apart, and knowing the subtle distinctions between different types, is what elevates a good suit to a truly exceptional one.
Wool: The King of Suit Fabrics
Wool remains the gold standard for suiting, prized for its versatility, breathability, and luxurious drape. Within wool, there are countless subcategories that only a seasoned tailor can distinguish. Super Numbers (Super 100s, 120s, 150s, etc.): These numbers don’t refer to quality but rather to fineness—the higher the number, the finer and lighter the fiber. Super 100s-120s are ideal for everyday wear, providing a balance of durability and softness. Super 140s and above are buttery soft and elegant, perfect for special occasions but more delicate and prone to wrinkling.
Worsted Wool: This is wool combed to remove shorter fibers, resulting in a smooth, sturdy fabric with a subtle sheen. It’s a staple in classic business suits.
Flannel: Wool flannel has a soft, brushed finish. It’s a winter favorite, offering warmth and a rich texture. True connoisseurs recognize the difference between worsted and woolen flannel—woolen is fluffier, while worsted has a crisper finish.
Seasonal Fabrics: Linen, Cotton, and Beyond
Linen: Pure linen, woven from flax fibers, is the summer suit’s signature. It breathes exceptionally well and develops a unique patina with age. The drawback? It wrinkles easily—though for many, that lived-in look is part of the charm. Some high-end tailors blend linen with silk or cotton for a crisper hand and fewer creases.
Cotton: Cotton suits, especially in lighter weights and weaves like gabardine or twill, are favored for their comfort and matte finish. Egyptian and Sea Island cotton are the most sought-after for their extra-long staple fibers, giving unparalleled softness and durability.
Silk and Silk Blends: A pure silk suit is rare and undeniably luxurious, prized for its natural sheen and featherweight drape. More commonly, silk is blended with wool or linen to add luster, softness, and resilience. These blends are excellent for summer weddings and high-fashion looks.
Specialty Wools: Mohair, Cashmere, and Vicuna
Mohair: Harvested from Angora goats, mohair is renowned for its crispness and unique sheen. A mohair blend suit is perfect for hot climates, as the fabric is breathable and holds its shape even in humidity. It’s also slightly prickly, which is why it’s rarely used alone.
Cashmere: Exceptionally soft and warm, cashmere is often reserved for blend fabrics or luxury sport coats. Pure cashmere suits are a rare indulgence—warm, incredibly soft, but delicate and prone to pilling.
Vicuna: The holy grail of suiting materials, vicuna is lighter, softer, and rarer than cashmere. Its cost reflects its exclusivity; most often, it’s used in linings or accent pieces in ultra-luxury tailoring.
Weaves, Patterns, and Performance
Twill: The diagonal weave of twill creates subtle texture and enhances durability. Twill wools resist wrinkles and drape beautifully.
Hopsack: An open, basket-like weave favored for unstructured jackets and summer suits. Hopsack offers breathability and a relaxed, modern aesthetic.
Sharkskin, Birdseye, and Glen Plaid: These are just a few classic weaves and patterns found in the finest wardrobes. Sharkskin offers a subtle two-tone shimmer, birdseye displays tiny dot patterns, and Glen plaid is the hallmark of British tailoring.
Performance & Technical Fabrics: Modern tailoring occasionally incorporates technical blends for stretch, stain resistance, and breathability. While purists prefer traditional wools, some clients love the flexibility and durability these blends provide—especially for travel suits.
Linings, Buttons, and Details
Linings: Bemberg (cupro) is the tailor’s choice for premium linings—cool, breathable, and smooth against the skin. Other options include silk, viscose, and acetate. Patterned linings add personality, but must be balanced so as not to overpower the suit.
Buttons: Real horn, mother-of-pearl, corozo (vegetable ivory), and metal are the marks of a luxury suit. Plastic buttons are a telltale sign of mass production. At Avi’s Threads, we source genuine materials and help clients select buttons that suit the garment’s style and purpose.
Canvas vs. Fused Construction: True bespoke and high-end custom suits use a full-canvas construction—a layer of horsehair or camel hair between the fabric and lining for structure and a natural drape. Fused suits (using glue) are cheaper and less breathable. Our clients are always given the choice, but canvas is our recommendation for longevity and comfort.
The Avi’s Threads Commitment
At Avi’s Threads, fabric selection is not just a choice—it’s a process. We work closely with each client, showing swatches, explaining subtle differences, and recommending the best match for their lifestyle, climate, and personal taste. Every suit is an education in quality.
If you want to experience the difference true materials make, book a consultation and see, touch, and feel the fabrics that set Avi’s Threads apart.